I'm typing this one handed, and the morphine is beginning to wear off. But that's later. We should start at the beginning. Dawn at the Maverick's Surf Contest!
I don't want to surf this. Waves are breaking in places I've never seen. 50 foot faces steamroll the lineup. The sun is pink between the mountains and the clouds. There are already ten dudes out. The guys on our boat who aren't in the contest "Rusty Long, Kohl Kristensen, and Mark Healey”suit up and are in the water before the boat stops. Within minutes, Rusty Long strokes into a 25-foot wave. He's got some ground to cover if he's going to make it to the shoulder. “Pull in!†Greg Long, Dave Wassel, and Twiggy yell at Rusty. Why would you encourage that? I wonder.
Chris Bertish wins the 2010 Mavericks Surf Contest
Posted by axem 161 days ago (http://www.funnal.com)
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